Posted by: Gillian | August 8, 2009

Solla

This post is undoubtedly going to be a long one, but I will try and break it up so that you can pick the dishes and pieces of the meal that you prefer to read about.  This was most certainly the best meal I had in Spain and definitely on my top five of all time, so it’s worth reading, I promise.

It was called Casa Solla, after the chef Pepe Solla. We drove 30 minutes from Moana to San Salvador de Poio outside of Pontevedra. Casa Solla is a locally known and celebrated restaurant that has served Galician style food for over half a century. Chef Pepe Solla says his cuisine is his own recipe creations inspired by the Galician kitchen.

When we pulled into the parking lot, I thought we were coming in to the back entrance: the kitchen door was open and there was no particular indication to the front door. But once we peered inside the doorway, we knew we were in the right place.  The entranceway was pretty and sophisticated and my eyes immediately went to the dining room, which was a gorgeous, open room almost entirely surrounded by large windows and glass doorways. The glass surrounding half of the dining room looked out over a fantastic view of the area.  As we followed the hostess ‘round the corner into the dining room, here were even more windows into the kitchen, which was immaculate and pristine I might add, where all patrons could see every part of the creation process in the kitchen. We had extremely polite, responsive and attentive wait staff, but not overly so: they weren’t interrupting our experience or conversation. We found out later during the meal that our waiter was indeed Chef Pepe Solla, Gasp!!

The wine we ordered was an Albarino grape of the Rias Baxias region that was actually made very nearby as Chef informed us:
Leirana Albarino
A Escusa 2008
Chef Pepe told us the story of this particular wine: it is made with a special fermentation process called malolactica (Malolactic fermentation or MLF a.k.a. malo) when malic acid present in the grapes is turned into lactic acid giving it more acid and more sugar, which is perfect to have with food. It’s almost spicy if you let it sit on your tongue for a moment. This particular wine was created by accident and for that reason there are only 2000 bottles on the market.

We boldly ordered “El menu express” with an addition or two. They were delightfully open to slight changes and accommodations to the prefix menu.  Ahh what a joy, flexibility on the part of a chef is something I greatly admire, but certainly don’t expect.  So let us go through the meal course-by-course.

Snacks y Aperitivo
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Posted by: Gillian | August 3, 2009

Croquetas

Croquetas

Croquetas Caseras

These are one of the Spanish tapas that many Americans are familiar with, perhaps because it’s fried but who knows.  Croquetas were originally developed as a great way to utilize leftovers.  Any leftover meat you had you could mix in with some thick béchamel, essentially scalded milk and flour, with whatever leftover chicken, meats or fish and potato. This mixture is rolled into balls and tossed in breadcrumbs.  Sometime there are onions and eggs and even wine, depending on the recipe.  The croquetas I has were chicken croquetas.  They looked delicious when they came steaming to the table. Beware: when it looks hot, it is VERY hot.  All that thick mixture retains the heat so don’t burn yourself on the first bite like I did.  Thankfully I didn’t burn too much of my mouth, so I could still enjoy the rest.  They were creamy inside, crispy outside; it even had an almost flakey texture to it.  They were quite enjoyable and I would highly recommend trying some on your next visit to Spain or your neighborhood tapas restaurant (if it’s any good that is).

Posted by: Gillian | August 3, 2009

Pulpo in Galicia

The Pulpo Stand at the Saturday market

The Pulpo Stand at the Saturday market

At that fateful fishmarket in Moaña I visited within my first few hours of arriving in Spain, there was a man and a woman cooking and selling fresh octopus at a small stand

Adding Olive Oil

Adding Olive Oil

next to the market.  Now what I mean by fresh is not what you would normally think of as fresh seafood.  Because the octopus meat is so tough and chewy, you must either freeze the octopus before you cook it or, as they did in the days before freezing, smash it against a large boulder on the beach over a hundred times (I choose to freeze it). Once thawed again, you boil it to prepare it. And by the way, I have learned the secret of how to cook octopus like this.  It is no wonder that our octopus is always chewy and unpleasant (it’s actually a different species, so that doesn’t help either I guess); in order to cook an octopus correctly you must dunk it three times in the boiling water before letting it go. This makes the skin stick to the flesh.  Then once the water starts to boil again it sits for about 45 min, or until an onion

Cutting the Pulpo

Cutting the Pulpo

cooking in the same pot is finished. Then it’s done and all you have to do is slice and serve. This man had a huge boiling copper cauldron next to him.  He pulled the octopus out, cut the tentacles off and then started slicing the tentacles with great dexterity into bite-sized pieces with a pair of scissors onto a serving plate made of pinewood. The reason for the pinewood plate is that before cutting the octopus onto it, it is dunked into the water in which the octopus was cooked, which will keep the food warm for a longer time.  These succulent pieces were then doused with olive oil, and sprinkled with flakey sea salt and paprika.  I know some people have an aversion to octopus, but man, octopus is completely different in this part of the world and boy do they know how to do it right.  My mother is not the biggest fan of octopus and when she tried this octopus for the first time, she fell in love with it.  It is so soft and succulent and the salt and paprika are so simple, but they just make the dish perfect.  I will never cook octopus any other way.  So here’s the recipe if you want to give it a try:
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Posted by: Gillian | August 2, 2009

Pimentos de Padron

Fresh Pimentos at the Market

Fresh Pimentos at the Market

I know I’ve mentioned this delicacy in earlier posts, but I thought I would give you a touch more insight about why they are so special here.  These thumb-nail-sized green peppers are no ordinary pepper.  They may look like the average sweet pepper and, at first few bites, may taste like that as well, but beware: eventually you will pop one of these tasty morsels into your mouth and find yourself hesitant to reach for more.  Most of these little peppers, gently fried in olive oil and salted, are sweet fresh and succulent, but some will make you pause with the spice they bring to your mouth.  Some say that the larger peppers are the hot ones, some say it is the softer pepper, and some even say it had to do with the look of the stem.  I certainly didn’t have enough to come to a conclusion on how to tell the sweet from the spicy, but it’s a fun dish to play with when you’re out to tapas with a bunch of friends, a form of Russian roulette if you will. After spending months away form home and my local spices of Asian and Mexican takeout, the spice in these peppers was a warm welcome.  I found that all over Italy and Spain, if a dish says spicy (‘piccante’ in Italian and even ‘diavolo’ sometimes; ‘picante’ in Spanish) it isn’t really the same level of heat we are used to here in the good old US of A.  I’ve been burned by many a chili, chipotle, wasabi or curry, but it seems to me that the Italians and Spanish are a little wimpier when it comes to heat in their food.  If you’re accustomed to any sort of hot Mexican or Asian spice, these pimentos wont kill you. If you don’t have much experience with spicy foods, bring some milk and bread, just in case, but I promise, the burn won’t last too long. Also for those of you who

Pimentos de Padron -fried slowly in olive oil and sea salt

Pimentos de Padron -fried slowly in olive oil and sea salt

are interested in tasting spicy peppers: if you want to relive your mouth of the post swallow burn, whatever you do, DON’T drink water; it will only spread the heat around your mouth.  If you need to cool down, reach for some bread or milk: these will help damper the fire in your mouth.  Good luck and Gustatelo!

Posted by: Gillian | August 2, 2009

What in the world are gooseneck barnacles?!

Plate of Percebes

Plate of Percebes

You have to see these things to believe it.

Percebes up close

Percebes up close

Percebes (gooseneck barnacles) are a shellfish with a long soft neck with a thick, plastic feeling black skin and hard shells at the top.  These creatures can only grow in certain parts of the world. They live on rocks that are exposed to heavy surf, which makes them extremely hard to harvest.  Because they are so difficult to find and harvest, they are considered a delicacy and are highly sought after.  You can find them in fish markets and restaurants in Galicia, specifically the coastal towns. Interestingly enough one of the other places in the world you can find these creatures is on Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada, where more than half of my family lives.  One “portion” of these guys, which is about 25 of them, costs 22 ‘! But the truth is, they were worth it. They are so ugly to look at, but they have such a delicate and delicious flavor.  It has a buttery chew to it and a touch of sweetness from the sea. The savory and satisfying taste along with their appearance made this a primal dish, in the best possible sense. We had lobster paella later in the meal, which was FANTASTIC! So we called this meal the “Who decided to eat these creatures first?” meal.

The "Who ate this first?" meal - Lobster and Percebes

The "Who ate this first?" meal - Lobster and Percebes

The "Who ate this first?" meal - Percebes

The "Who ate this first?" meal - Percebes

Posted by: Gillian | August 2, 2009

Berberechos

Berberechos

Berberechos

Berberechos are small mollusk in the general shape of a cherrystone clam but much smaller and with grooves radiating out from the central joint of the shell. I tried this lovely seafood on the patio of a small bar out on the boardwalk of Moana on a cool summer night.  They were served on a small platter with nothing added to them at all: no lemon, no herbs, no oil, nada.  The simplicity of this dish was impressive because these little animals were just so succulent and tasty. It’s really only possible to serve shellfish naked like this when it is truly fresh. The flavor was somewhere in between a scallop and a clam with a nice texture that was complex, but not overly chewy.  I ended up bringing some canned berberechos home with me. I have yet to try them to compare, but my feeling is the best berberechos can be found right where I ate them, a few kilometers down the boardwalk from where they were harvested out of the shallow beach.

Posted by: Gillian | August 1, 2009

Off to Spagna

Vigo, Spain

Vigo, Spain

Well after a wonderful and short tour around Italy, I stopped over in Galicia, Spain to visit with my boyfriend and his family for a few days before returning back to the states. (Aren’t I the luckiest?!) His family lives on a beautiful hillside property overlooking the gorgeous Ria de Vigo (Bay of Vigo), not to mention the breathtaking view of Vigo, the large port city of the area. Vigo and its surrounding “suburbs” we’ll call them are on the Atlantic coast of Spain, just north of Portugal. This area has always been known for their fish, shellfish, mollusks…you name the seafood, they have it. This area was also visited in the popular “Spain, On The Road Again” series with Mario Batali, Mark Bittman (a personal hero of mine), Gweneth Paltrow, and Claudia Bassols. Their visit was to a different town, but they experienced some of the same regional things I did. Although I have to say, my stay was much longer and I think I got a bit more of the culture than they did. Again, lucky me!

The Farmhouse

The Farmhouse

Anyway, I stayed in a quaint farmhouse complete with chickens, sheep, lemons, avocados, oranges, grapefruit, figs, pineapple guavas, persimmons, apricots, plums, zucchini, cucumbers, and just about any herb you can think of. This family of 11 children, now all grown with their own children, grew up and played on this wonderful property full of adventures to be had by young kids. And then my boyfriend and all his cousins had the chance to visit and grow up on the same land. It truly is a wonderful and magical place nestled between the town of Cangas and Moaña, the former slightly larger than the latter, but both fantastic places to find fresh fish in the extensive market. Read More…

Posted by: Gillian | July 31, 2009

Italian Days…then abbiocco (food coma in italian)

All signs point to good food

All signs point to good food

I went on a wonderful tour with my mother and nephew to Modena for a personal tour of the Parmigiano factory, COOP Casearia Castelnovese.  Our guide Alessandro was fantastic! He is originally from Tuscany and now does tours called Italian Days of the Parmigiano, aceto balsamico and Parma ham producers as well as doing some wine tastings.  He was a great guide overflowing with information and totally flexible and willing to cater to our desires.  If you would like to see any of these wonderful food related gems of Italy or even just drive around Emilia-Romagna or Tuscany for a cultural tour, give Alessandro a call. www.Italiandays.it

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Posted by: Gillian | July 29, 2009

Lunch in Firenze

View from Villa Mangiacane outside of florence

View from Villa Mangiacane outside of florence

Alessandro’s knowledgeable recommendation lead us to this Florentine restaurant a short walk from the train station in Florence.  We arrived with our heavy bags and rolled them down the street and into the restaurant.   The décor was a bit plain and not quite inviting, but the service was very welcoming and warm.  We ordered some bruschette al tartufo nero di Norcia – Bruschetta with black truffles, Petti di Pollo con fiori di zucca e gorgonzola – chicken breast with zucchini flowers and gorgonzola, and Ribollita alla cantadina – country style bread soup with hearty bean and black cabbage.

The bread that came to the table was the typical saltless bread that is typical in Florence. It was a tiny bit stale as well, but I’ve found that fact is not uncommon for table bread in Italy.

Bruschetta Tartufo

Bruschette al Tartufo

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Posted by: Gillian | July 28, 2009

Ligurian Cuisine

Hiking the Cinque Terre

Hiking the Cinque Terre

While in the Cinque Terre, I got to taste a good number of the “traditional Ligurian dishes”, which were advertised, made and sold everywhere!! At one ristorante, Ristorante e Locanda La Loggio, we got to taste a few.  First the Pansoti in salsa di noce – a type of big ravioli with a walnut sauce. Apparently this pasta is made with flour, water, white wine and a crushed garlic clove.

Pansoti

Pansoti

And the stuffing is usually lean traditionally with ricotta, parm, herbs, swiss chard and an egg. Technically the only sauce that is “allowed” with the pasta is a walnut sauce, and that was the first part of the dish to catch my attention: it smelled incredible!  The sweet walnut smell and taste will always bring me back to this amazing maple walnut ice cream I used to order form the Sunshine Dairy in Sherborn Massachusetts: sweet and delicate, but nice and nutty.  The walnuts were in very small pieces so that you couldn’t get the crunch of the nut, but you could still tell that the whole nut was there in use because you could see pieces of the nut skin; it gave a moist essence of walnut. Read More…

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